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When assembling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end names. But, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family utterly astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small place earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.